How much can this Hoo do in one week in Japan?

Editor’s note: Alyssa Rim is a UVA Today student writer. We asked her to chronicle her spring break trip to Japan.

At the University of Virginia’s Hereford Residential College, students were offered a unique opportunity to travel to Japan during spring break to learn about world-famous animator Hayao Miyazaki and his animation company, Studio Ghibli, while studying his portrayals of Japanese culture. 

As a Miyazaki fan since childhood, I was thrilled at the mention of this trip. I don’t live in Hereford, so I was especially jealous of my friends who do, as the trip is usually reserved exclusively for them. Still, I decided it was worth a try. 

On a whim, I emailed the program instructor, UVA education professor Karen Kurotsuchi Inkelas, about applying. To my surprise, she encouraged it. After submitting my application with two other friends and waiting, I was accepted into the program!

The course, The Interplay of Art & Culture in Miyazaki’s Japan, met weekly to watch Miyazaki movies, discuss their themes and messages, and explore how they fit into Miyazaki’s life and Japanese culture. 

Alongside Inkelas, Christian Steinmetz, an associate professor and principal of Hereford, and Tomoya Nishira, a graduate fellow at Hereford, directed the screenings, classes and the trip. While we didn’t meet Nishira until we arrived in Japan, Steinmetz regularly facilitated our discussions with Inkelas.

After completing the four films of the class, “My Neighbor Totoro,” “Princess Mononoke,” “Spirited Away” and “Howl’s Moving Castle,” we were given a list of cultural themes portrayed in the films to choose from, observe in Japan and later present about. 

Grouped with two fellow non-Hereford residents – Ashley Xiao, a second-year student in the School of Architecture, and Sydney McClellan, a second-year student majoring in media studies and English in the College of Arts & Sciences – I embarked on my trip to Japan. 

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Sunday, March 1 Three friends smiling at a restaurant table with bowls of ramen.

After a 13-hour flight and figuring out the Japanese transit system, we arrived at our hotel in Ginza, Tokyo. We freshened up and made our way to Tokyo Ramen Street, a famous strip of ramen shops in the underground precinct of the Tokyo train station. My friends and I ate the best $8 bowl of ramen we’ve ever had, then went back to Ginza to shop.

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Monday, March 2 Two friends posing by a moat with a traditional Japanese castle behind them. 

Early in the morning, our group headed to the Imperial Palace in Tokyo, where we walked the gravel paths and observed the palace from the outside. Then we commuted to Senso-Ji, a Buddhist temple in Asakusa, Tokyo. For lunch, we went to Tokyo Skytree, an observation deck and multi-story shopping mall. We split off and went to Sumida Aquarium, just a floor above the food court, where we watched jellyfish, penguins and fur seals swim around.

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Tuesday, March 3 Japanese soba noodles on a bamboo tray with dipping sauce and a small bowl of chicken and egg rice.

We took the train to Kunitachi, Tokyo, where we visited a community center supporting marginalized groups and Hitotsubashi University. There, we learned about local efforts to assist the community through counseling services and public events. We received a filling meal of soba noodles and a side dish of our choice (I chose pork cutlet), then roamed Kunitachi.

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Wednesday, March 4 Japanese bathhouse interior with Mount Fuji mural and tall windows.

Our itinerary was stacked with museums. We took a bus to the Edo-Tokyo Open-Air Architecture Museum, which showcases different historical Japanese buildings. Next, we drove to the Ghibli Museum in Mitaka, Tokyo. The history of Studio Ghibli and Hayao Miyazaki’s career is depicted through original storyboards, rooms that mimic authentic studios, and beautiful structures inspired by Ghibli movies. Once we finished our museum tour, my friends and I journeyed to Akihabara, known as the “electric town” of Tokyo.

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Thursday, March 5 People posing inside a large Catbus from My Neighbor Totoro exhibit.

Somehow our trip instructors secured tickets to Ghibli Park, a Studio Ghibli theme park in Nagakute, Aichi. We took the bullet train and even caught a glimpse of Mount Fuji on the way. The park was bigger than I expected, with buildings and figures straight from the Ghibli movies they referenced. There are five main areas to explore, but my favorites were the Ghibli Grand Warehouse and the Valley of Witches. The star of the show, however, was the gift shop at the beginning.

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Friday, March 6 Crowds of people crossing a busy intersection surrounded by tall buildings and bright billboards in Shibuya Crossing.

Our only group activity involved visiting Meiji Jingu, a Shinto shrine in Shibuya. We prayed at the shrine, received fortunes, then walked to Harajuku, an area in Shibuya known for its trendy fashion and youthful energy. After doing some financial damage there, my group headed to the main area of Shibuya, famous for its clothing shops and entertainment. We were nearly swept up into the crowds at Shibuya Crossing, a famously busy intersection that has become a hot tourist spot.

A trip to remember

As much as I missed being home, Japan blew me away with its rich culture, cheap and delicious food and toilets with bidets everywhere. I often found myself in disbelief that I was in Japan with my college friends, and I made memories I will carry with me for the rest of my life. I also gained a newfound sense of confidence in traveling abroad and navigating a different language. I hope to go abroad again soon to put these skills to the test. I’m incredibly grateful for the opportunity to visit such a fascinating country and look forward to reflecting on the trip even more as the course concludes.

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